Who The F*ck Spends More Than $5k On A Suit?
I think Meek Mill said it best when he said, “It’s levels to this shit”. It’s a universal truth and one that is especially relevant in menswear. Like most things in life, happiness comes when you find the right balance between being where you are and looking forward to where you could go. The first few levels are structured, the way we start with elementary school, middle school, high school, and finally college. Similarly, the first levels of menswear follow one specific truth, “You get what you pay for”. It’s clear that fast fashion is cheaper not only in price but also in quality. Once you get past a certain level though, it’s hard to follow a clear route — the way career paths are a bit more abstract than school was. Are YSL boots worth twice as much as Allen Edmonds? There’s only so far that quality can take you, so what do you pay for after a certain point? Is it the name recognition? The rarity? We make and sell suits between $1,000-$60,000, that’s a pretty wide gap and it’s easy to lose track of why that is. For most of our clients, their suits are within the $1,500-$3,000 range. Combining a lighter, more breathable fabric and some high-quality manufacturing is relatively straight-forward, so what about the more expensive stuff? Who is spending more when a $2,000 suit can make you feel like you’re on top of the world? Well, there are a few things that it comes down to.
The material: This is the same across the board, higher quality wool is gonna cost more. When it’s blended with silk, cashmere, or both, it’s clear that it’ll cost more than when you get a cotton suit for the summer. This is evident even in our $1,000 seersucker suits compared to our $2,400 Loro Piana wool, but what’s in “Next Level” materials?
For starters, how about precious stones? We work with some mills that introduce gold and platinum threads, or that have microscopic diamond, jade, or lapis lazuli woven directly into the fabric. Understandably, that’s a little more expensive than traditional fabrics. Those suits range from $7,000-$10,000.
You have to admit that’s pretty cool, but you could always get that in your jewelry without automatically doubling or tripling your suit price. So what’s the best of the best as far as suit fabrics? That’s vicuna, the rarest and finest fabric in the world. You could ask members of royal families, business moguls, or even 2Chainz what it feels like to wear a suit in this luxurious fabric, but it’s a feeling that can’t be described. A vicuna suit goes for about $50,000. If you’re looking to have a suit that you can confidently wear anywhere in the world and know it’s better than what anyone else is wearing, then that’s a vicuna suit designed by Giorgio Verdi. Some guys just want it because it’s the most expensive, but trained tailors will tell you it’s more than just a price tag. The Vicuna is a rare animal with a fabric finer than the highest quality cashmere, which grows so slowly that they can only be sheared every 2–3 years.
The process: The way we work our materials is something that comes from years of experience. For example, we’ve partnered with Scabal who carries a line called Summit which is the pinnacle of quality wool.
A quick breakdown on the SUPER number assigned to wool: A human hair is between 30–100 microns in diameter. A single thread of wool can be much thinner, and this measurement determines it’s number, the higher the super number the lower the microns or the thinner the wool which usually means it’s lighter and more breathable. Suits usually range from 80s-130s for work suits and regular wear, 150s-200s are considered luxury suits, more for special occasions. Being a Super 250’s line is unheard of, it means it’s 11.25 microns in diameter. Only through Scabal’s process which includes paper-pressing is it possible to have this fabric with such a magnificent drape. We also have their special Orchid fabric, which is a Super 150’s worsted wool with the essence of orchid infused which leads to a sweet subtle aroma even after dry cleaning, it also makes the fabric more resilient so you can have the softness of a Super 150’s wool(16.25 microns, lighter than most wools but thicker than cashmere) without worrying about sacrificing the longevity of your suit. Orchid suits start at $8,000 and a Summit one goes for $20,000.
Sound crazy? 9 of the 16 Summit fabrics for the season are already sold out. Not only are gentlemen out there buying suits in these fabrics, but we’re having trouble keeping them in stock. With a micron count that rivals vicuna at less than half the price, it’s easy to see why.
The Feeling: Now when we talk about the feeling, we aren’t talking about how the fabric feels. That’s important too, and it’s called “The Hand” but let’s face it, after a certain point you’re not going to notice the difference between Super 120s and Super 150s. For most of us, we want something that feels soft and breathable, which you can achieve with just wool, maybe adding some cashmere for warmth or linen to help it feel lighter in hot weather. So if that’s “the hand”, then what do we mean by “The Feel”? It’s the feeling you get when you put it on. There’s a difference between feeling that your suit “will do” and that it’s the nicest suit at the party. It’s why businessmen wear a $100,000 watch to a meeting. Imagine pairing that with an off the rack suit, you might as well wear a sign that says “I have money but don’t know how to dress”. Even when we’re talking bespoke, it seems crazy that your watch would be worth 100 of your suits. 100 of the other guys’ suits sure, but not your own. If you’re flying private, if you’re buying and selling companies, if like Post Malone you got “Hundred thousand dollars on the tabletop, half-price my whips same price my watch” then yeah, you’re not gonna pair it with a bargain suit. You want that feeling you get when you know you’re the best dressed in the room no matter what room it is. That your fabric is the highest quality, that the platinum threads on your pinstripes compliment your platinum albums. It’s the reason we get floor seats to a game, the reason we ask for “a bottle of your best champagne”, the reason we love new car smell. When you have the best, you feel like the best, and that’s when you perform your best. Whether or not anyone else knows it, you feel it.
You don’t need to spend $50,000 to get the feeling though, the key is to pick the fabric that speaks to you because it’s what you want, not just because of the price tag. For those who believe in natural properties and vibrations of rocks and crystals, a $7,000 suit with Lapis Lazuli in the fabric is supposed to make you feel determined, focused, and confident. And if you’re getting 6 suits for the price of one vicuna suit, you’ll probably feel pretty smart too.
The intention: Whether you’re wearing vicuna, cashmere, gold, diamonds, precious stones, or just incredibly rare wool, the most important thing is that it’s intentional. Don’t buy a suit because it’s the most expensive, or because it’s the cheapest, and don’t buy a suit without being a part of the process. You can ask for the softest, the rarest, the one that smells the best, that drapes the best, that has a certain stone or material, just don’t walk in and ask for the most expensive for the sake of being the most expensive, because then you aren’t wearing your suit, it’s wearing you.